1969 Chevy C-10 Long Bed

Converting a six-lug ’67-’71 Chevy to a five-lug | C10 TECH

Converting a six-lug ’67-’71 Chevy to a five-lug

If you went out looking for rims 20 years ago, you would’ve had a hard time finding six-lug wheels. Sure, they existed, but the offsets were weird, and the styles often ran secondary to their more popular five-lug cousins. Then Chevy came out with a six-lug truck in 1999 and the game changed. But there are still those of us that prefer five-lug wheels because we want a clean five-spoke design. And if you’re one of those folks and you have a 1967-1971 Chevy C-10, then swapping over gives you another advantage: disc brakes.

Drum brakes suck. If you want to upgrade to a more modern system and get a five-on-five bolt pattern in the process, then you’re in luck: CPP has a kit to make your dreams come true. You can convert all four wheels to disc brakes if you like, or just keep the rears drum and convert the fronts to discs—your call.

In this case, the victim was a 1969 C-10 that was undergoing a short bed conversion. The owner wanted to get into some nicer wheels than he was finding. Plus, he knew that disc brakes are the safer choice. He still wanted drums out back, but if you want discs then know that CPP makes a kit for you, too.

[divider] SOURCES [/divider]
Classic Performance Products
378 E Orangethorpe Ave.
Placentia, CA 92870

Crown Suspension

Metalox Fabrication
8615 w Kelton Lane
Suite 305
Peoria AZ 85382

The truck began life as a 1969 long bed, complete with heated coils to give it that classy stance. Needless to say, it was ready for an upgrade.
The CPP kit comes with everything you need to convert the truck to a five-lug, and the Crown Suspension kit will lower the truck 4/6. Not pictured are the new CPP front brake rotors and calipers.
The bed was already off of the truck since it was under the knife, so the crew at Metalox Fabrication got the truck on jack stands and removed the rear wheels.
The rear coils were heated and looked like limp noodles, so after they cut it out of the pocket, they unbolted the remnants from the trailing arms and frame.
The panhard bar and rear shocks came next.
After putting a drain pan underneath the axle, Kyle from Metalox unbolted the differential cover and let the ancient fluid empty out.
Once the adjuster was backed off with a flathead screwdriver, Cameron from Metalox pulled the drums off of the axle.
A pin holds the axles in place inside the differential, and it’s locked in with a bolt. They unbolted that bolt and slide the pin out being careful not to shift the spider gears inside.
Once the guys pushed the axles shafts in toward the differential on both sides they could remove the c-clips. See those grooves in the middle? That’s where the c-clips sit.
The c-clips themselves are pretty straightforward. You might want to use a magnet or a pick tool to get them out.
The axles then slide right out easily. This is a good time to replace your axle bearings and seals if you’re doing maintenance anyways.
The new five-lug axles slide in just like the old ones. You’ll want to lube them first to ensure they don’t get hung up.
With the c-clips reinstalled, the pin can be bolted back in place. Then they bolted up the differential cover and filled it with fluid.
The new drums slide right in place, and just like that, the rear end now has five lugs.
Kyle decided to make his own lowering blocks, and whipped up a set of 2-inchers to mate up with the new lowering springs.
The rear springs bolted in place just like factory, but up top they mated to the new notch, which came with mounting holes all ready to go.
They then installed the new track bar from CPP and the Crown shocks to button up the rear end.
The stock front suspension was pretty rough. Almost 40 years of dirt and grease were caked on everything, and the ball joints weren’t doing much better, either.
The tie rods came off first so that the spindle could be spun easily and give the guys more access to the ball joint nuts.
The shocks and brake line were next. The CPP kit comes with new brake lines, and the old rubber ones were pretty worn out.
After putting a jack under the lower control arm to support it, Kyle moved on to the lower ball joint, and although it put up a fight, it eventually broke free.
With the spring out of the way, they spun the spindle 180 degrees to give them easy access to the upper control arm ball joint.
The upper and lower control arms went in for a steam bath and came back beautiful. Once they installed new ball joints and bushings, they had one thing left to do: Cut off the bump stop mount on the lower control arm.
Kyle installed the control arms next and put in the new springs and shocks. The steering was rebuilt too, ensuring that the truck would handle well when all was said and done.
The CPP kit comes with new spindles specially made to hold the new brake calipers and five-lug rotors. They got bolted up next.
The brackets for the calipers bolt into the backside of the spindle using the provided hardware.
Before the rotors could be installed, new bearings and seals were put in place.
Installing the rotors took just a minute, then the calipers were bolted up.
The finishing touch was the new brake lines, and they were installed with new copper washers.
Now a new set of sexy 20-inch US Mags Ramblers were bolted up to the truck, completing the look. Disc brakes and five lugs? It’s a perfect combo.
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